Train:
There are three overnight Special Express trains and one in the daytime; the journey lasts about 12 to 13 hours. The station is about 2.5km east of Tha Pae Gate: to get into town, take a red Song Thaew from the station, at 20 Baht per person, or a Tuk Tuk at 50 Baht upwards.

Air Services:
Many flights from Bangkok and other cities inside and outside Thailand. For links to Airline websites see Airlines. The airport is only 2 kilometers to the south east of the city center.

Bus:
Many operators run buses from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, at prices from 150 Baht upwards. Journey time is 8 hours upwards, tickets from any travel agent. There are also bus services between Chiang Mai and most of Northern & North East Thailand, together with international services to Laos and beyond.

As Chiang Mai is much older than Bangkok, the range of temple architecture is correspondingly wider, and covers a much longer historical period, from the earlier low profile Lan Na style to the taller and more ornate 19th and 20th century styles.

Though many of the major temples are within, or close to the city walls, there several important temples somewhat further out of town, notably Wat Jed Yod (see below), Wat Suan Dork, and Wat Phra That Doi Suthep(se below). For the locations of these temples see the interactive map above.

Of the city center temples the most famous are probably Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Phra Singh, Wat Chiang Man and Wat Bupharam, though I also like the lesser known Wat Lok Moli and Wat Mangrai.

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Wat Mangrai is a very early Lan Na style Wat located on Rajamanka Road, soi 6. The lion gates, detail on the left, are superb, as is the stucco decoration on the gable end of the Wiharn.

Unfortunately the temple seems much neglected (2006).

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Not much is known of Wat Lok Moli, situated on Manee Nopparat Road, just west of Chang Phuak Gate, though it was clearly of importance to the family and descendants of King Mangrai, as they had their ashes buried there. First chronicle mention of the temple was in the late 14th century.

The beautiful teak built Wiharn is partly open sided. The massive chedi behind the Wiharn is a typical Lan Na square chedi.

Situated to the north west of the city on route 11, Super Highway, Wat Potharam Maha Wiharn, popularly know as Wat Jed Yod, is considered one of Thailand's most important historic sites.

Much of the temple complex is in ruins, but what remains of the Lan Na style Chedis, and the extraordinary seven spired Wiharn, which gives the temple its name (Jed Yod = seven spires), are most impressive and evocative.

The temple was built by King Tilok during the late 15th century. The great Wiharn Jed Yod was modelled on the Mahabodhi Vihara, Bodh Gaya India, and the Bodhi Tree nearby is said to have come from the tree, also in Bodh Gaya, under which The Buddha achieved illumination. The well preserved Chedi, shown to the left, contains the ashes of King Tilok himself.

The walls of the Wiharn were decorated with beautiful stucco reliefs, depicting celestial beings; some of the reliefs are still in pretty good conditon, others much damaged during long wars with Burma, by the end of which, in the late 18th century, Lan Na was exhausted and depopulated, Wat Jed Yod and Chiang Mai itself were abandoned for some 20 years.

Wat Potharam Maha Wiharn is important in the history of Buddhism in that the highly significant 8th World Buddhist Council was held there in 1477.

Wat Chedi Luang is a large temple complex situated on Phra Pok Klao Road. Its most noteworthy feature is the enormous central chedi, measuring 60 metres at the base, one time home of the Emerald Buddha (now in Wat Phra Kaeo, Bangkok).

According to the The Chiang Mai Chronicle, construction of the great Chedi began under King Saen Meung Ma in 1391 C.E. Because of the scale of the work and the death of the king in 1401, the structure was not completed until the reign of King Tilokaraja in 1454. Originally reaching a height of almost 90 meters, the building was decapitated by an earthquake in 1545. Again, according to The Chiang Mai Chronicle, the Chedi of Wat Phra Singh, and 9 other chedis were destroyed in the same earthquake.

In recent years there has been ongoing restoration work to the elephant balustrade at the second level of the pedestal (not shown in current photograph) but the main tower is still a shadow of its former glory. On Google Earth, however, it remains the most eye-catching feature of central Chiang Mai, and can also be viewed in the Satellite view of the Interactive Map, above.

In the western part of the temple grounds facing the ruins of the great Chedi is a Mondop sheltering a large reclining Buddha, and above the statue, somewhat ironically, a sentence thought to be the last words of the Buddha:


The Grand Wiharn, situated in front of the main gate, is currently (2006) under renovation. It houses an enormous standing Buddha figure, Phra Chao Attarot, which is believed to date back to the time of King Saen Meung Ma.

On the southern side of the compound, near the main gate, is the Chiang Mai city pillar, moved to its present location by King Kawila in 1800. The statues which surround this shrine are believed to house guardian spirits of the city.

Near the monks' quarters, to the north of the compound, is a small garden where visitors are invited to engage in English conversation with the monks.

Wat Bupharam is located on Tha Pae Road, not far from Tha Pae Gate. According to The Chiang Mai Chronicle, the temple building was started in the 1490's, in the reign of King Kaeo Phutadipatiraja who also made additions to Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Phra Singh and Wat Suan Dork.

The small Wiharn was added in the late 18th century by Chao Thammalangka, second king to King Kawila, who later added the large Wiharn.

The larger Wiharn is a two story structure, making it much taller than most Lan Na Wiharns; a small library takes up most of the ground floor, with the upper floor being the preaching hall.


The Wiharn contains many beautiful examples of Lan Na craftsmanship, including murals, Buddha images, Naga stairs, wood carvings and brass work. The banner image for this page, showing elephants riding to war, is taken from the preaching hall.

The Chedi features a bronze Buddha at the center of each of the four sides. Just visible above the larger statue in the photograph is a tiny bronze Buddha. Last time I visited the temple (August 2005), the smaller image had disappeared. Perhaps someone had left it there to accumulate merit.

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Around 26km south of Chiang Mai on the Northern railway line is the ancient city of Lamphun. This was the center of the ancient Mon kingdom of Haripunjaya, founded around the middle of the 7th century AD. Well worth a visit are Wat Chamathevi on Chamathevi Road, and the temple complex of Wat Phrathat Haripunchai between Inthayongyot Road and the river, originally founded in the 11th century, but also containing features from the intervening centuries.

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About 16 km west of the city and visible from most of Chiang Mai, is Doi Suthep (Doi = mountain). The temple, Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, located near the top of the mountain, is the main feature. The present buildings date from the 16th century, but have been restored several times since. The temple is one of the most important and most visited srines in northern Thailand, as it is believed to contain a relic (Phra That) of the Buddha.

It is reached by a long winding mountain road followed by a flight of around 290 (or that's how many I counted) stone steps flanked on each side by nagas (the multi headed snake of Buddhist mythology). The temple itself is split into many sections and shrines with a bewildering variety of Buddha images. The upper terrace provides a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside and Chiang Mai to the east.

Some distance past the temple is Phuping Palace, royal residence for Chiang Mai. Only the gardens are open to the public.

Frequent Song Thaews (destination "Doi Suthep" clearly visible on the destination boards) run from the old city center to the mountain. Price is around 30 Baht each way.

The main areas for Guest Houses & Hotels is the eastern part of the old city, near Tha Pae gate, and the area between Mun Meuang Road and the river. Prices range from 300 Baht per night for a double room with shower and air-con, to 4,000 Baht and more for a five star hotel. See below for a selection.

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Lots of small Inns and Guest houses, at prices from 150 Baht to 600 Baht. The Inner city is a favorite area of mine, quieter than the inner city ring road, and close to many of the most beautiful historical sites.

39 Soi 1, Ratchadamnoen Rd, Chiang Mai 50200
Tel: 053-226778, Fax: 053-226966

178 Rachapakhinai Road, Chiang Mai 50200
Tel: 053-418955, Fax: 053419031
email: safehouse_th@usa.net

18/4-6 Ratchawithi Rd.,
Chiang Mai 50000
tel: 053 216655
mdhousecm@yahoo.com

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Similar accomodation to Inner City, but not so quiet. Lots of Tuk Tuks and bars.

5 Soi 4, Kot Cha San Road, Chiang Mai 50100
Tel: 053-282460, Fax: 053-206404

357 Mun Meuang Road, Tel: 053-418446

38/7 Mun Meuang Road, Soi Prasing
Tel: 053-207134

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Similar to Tha Pae Gate area, but more bars, and nearby Night Bazaar.

47 soi 4 Tha Pae Road, Chiang Mai 50000
Tel: 053 274823

69 Lai Kroh Road, Chiang Mai 50100
Tel: 053 276742, Fax: 053 206267